Thousand Island Lakes Loop July 2021
A 4-day backpacking trip to the Thousand Island Lakes on the John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails
Backpacking on the Thousand Island Lakes loop has been on my to-do list for several years. I had to cancel my reservations in 2020, so was delighted to be able to finally visit the area in mid-July of 2021. The scenery is indeed beautiful and I could understand why it is such a popular and iconic backpacking trip. I also enjoyed attempting to take photos of the Milky Way over Thousand Island Lakes, and experiencing the diversity of terrain on the route.
Location of Inyo National Forest and Agnew Meadows Trailhead in California, near Mammoth Mountain Ski resort
Counter-clockwise Route in orange from Agnew Meadows to Thousand Island Lakes, Clark Lakes, then Ediza Lake. My actual GPS track was lost in a computer crash, so the route was re-traced using Gaia GPS.
Total Distance: 34 miles (54.7 km) Elevation Ascent 6188 feet
Because of the distance of the drive from my home, and the need to get to the trailhead early, I drove up the night before and stayed at the New Shady Rest Campground near Mammoth Mountain. That gave me a bit of time to explore the area, which was necessary as the location of the shuttle stops was not obvious. A shuttle bus is required for travel to the Agnew Meadows trailhead after 7:00 a.m. As recommended, I had booked tickets on the Reds Meadow / Devil's Postpile Shuttle Bus, and only realized upon my arrival that I had to pick up tickets at the Shuttle business window, and couldn't simply get them as I boarded the bus (even with a reservation). Unfortunately, I had arrived after the business office closed for the shuttle, so would need to arrive early the next morning to ensure I picked up my ticket before the bus departed at my scheduled time of 8:30. I also wasn't sure of the location of the Mammoth Mountain Adventure center, but a bit of asking around at the Village eventually set me straight: I needed to take Highway 203 past the Village.
I didn't sleep well, and when I awoke early at 5 a.m. I realized I could save time and hassle by simply getting to the trailhead before 7 a.m. Foregoing my shuttle ticket, I set off, and I was glad I took this option.
I had been unable to get trailhead reservations for a clockwise route, which I thought might be preferable as I'd be carrying the most weight on the shorter trip to Ediza Lake. However, when that wasn't available, I chose the route north up the Pacific Crest Trail, to reach Thousand Island Lake on the first night. This turned out to be far preferable to my original choice, as I'll describe.
Day 1: Agnew Meadows Trailhead to Thousand Island Lakes via the Pacific Crest Trail 10.2 miles - 16.4 km
I reached the trailhead at Agnew Meadows before 6 a.m., and there were only a few other cars parked there. After sorting through gear, I set off up the PCT. I was happy to be doing the biggest climb of the trip in the early, cool hours of the morning. The climb felt quite gradual, and I finished most of the climbing after only 3 miles, still quite early in the day. The rest of the hike was a gentle, hill-side trail dotted with wildflowers, with frequent expansive views of the surrounding mountain ranges.
Around mid-morning I saw great views of Shadow Lake and its waterfall outlet in the valley below.
Shortly afterward, I arrived at the fork to Clark Lakes, which I hoped to visit the next day.
I stopped briefly at Badger Lake, which seemed a bit boggy; no doubt more shallow than usual from California's drought.
Heading west, I arrived at the outflow of Ten Thousand Lakes in the early afternoon. Following the advice of the ranger, I hiked another 0.7 mile west toward the end of the lake, to find a campsite away from the crowds. Most of the first (easternmost) sites were occupied, and I was surprised by the number of visitors. I found a nice private spot on a ledge above the lake, and relaxed by setting up my campsite and exploring.
Thousand Island Lake Slideshow
Day 2: Thousand Island Lakes to Agnew Pass and Clark Lakes day hike 8.5 miles - 13.7 km The next morning, I had a leisurely breakfast and prepared for a day hike to Agnew Pass and Clark Lakes. On the way out, I passed a marmot sunning himself on a rock. I decided to take the counter-clockwise route to Clark Lakes, going up Agnew Pass first. This turned out to be the more steep of the two options. Clark Lakes offered more solitude than the Thousand Island Lakes, albeit for a less grand setting. There was only one other camper at Clark Lakes, and she seemed to be enjoying her solitude.
Day 3: Thousand Island Lakes to Garnet and Ediza Lake 9 miles - 14.5 km As I departed Thousand Island Lake, the ranger was checking permits and doing trail maintenance, so I chatted briefly before heading out. When she was quizzing me on my permit and camping practices, she commented that a lot of her work was using her shovel to properly bury exposed human excrement, particularly in the eastern camping area of the Lake. Yuck!
Before hopping across this log bridge to hike south on the John Muir Trail, I stopped to wrap up my camera although the water certainly wasn't deep.
The hike to Garnet Lake was quite enjoyable in the cool sunshine of the morning, and I enjoyed the views of Garnet Lake from all sides as I circled the eastern edge of the lake from north to south. There seemed to be quite a bit more space for campers along the far shores of Garnet Lake, and fewer people.
John Muir Trail Slideshow
I stopped for lunch at the top of the pass between Garnet Lake and Laura and Clarice Lakes, at 10,099 feet.
After descending down to Shadow Creek Trail, I passed a few more backpackers resting or camping along Shadow Creek Trail. Camping is restricted along Shadow Creek Trail, limited to specific locations. Continuing west toward Ediza Lake, I encountered a few more stream crossings that prompted me to put away my camera. When I arrived in view of Ediza Lake, I could see quite a few tents and people scattered all the way along the western shore of the lake, the primary spot designated for camping. As I got closer and was scouting the best location to cross the rushing Shadow Creek on the south end of Ediza, a nice gentleman came over. He welcomed me to Ediza Lake, but said it was a bit crowded on the western side of the lake. He suggested a spur trail up the hill that had a nice small spot that would be suitable for a solo camper and offer more privacy. I thanked him and headed up the hill. Another woman I met on the trail told me she escaped the crowds at Ediza by climbing the Ritter spur trail, up the western slope of the lake. I found a nice isolated spot up the hill, with plenty of privacy and sufficiently far from a rushing creek.
Day 4: Ediza Lake to Trailhead 8 miles - 12.9 km
I was up at dawn, packing up to hike back to the trailhead for the long drive home. The sun was already bright, although it hadn't yet fully reached the trail on the hill.
I captured some photos of Ediza Lake from the eastern shore, before departing.
The hike down to Shadow Lake was quite enjoyable, alongside the rushing Shadow Creek with a few scattered wildflowers. Arriving at Shadow Lake, I took a few moments to enjoy the quiet lake, happy that camping was prohibited there so as to preserve the natural beauty.
As I hiked down the rocky path in the warm sunshine, I was very glad I had taken the counter-clockwise route, even though it meant more mileage on the first day. The path from Shadow Lake down to the river trail is quite rocky and exposed, and warm in the sun. I was glad to be going down this trail instead of laboring up it! On the counter-clockwise route, the small ascent on the Pacific Crest trailhead can occur in the early morning, and the rest of the hike is an easy ramble along forested hillsides. In contrast, the clockwise route would require hiking up the exposed rocks of the Shadow Creek trail in warmer sun.
Finally down at the bottom where the Shadow Creek trail intersects with the River Trail, I passed the small Olaine Lake, before beginning the slight climb back to the Agnew Meadows Trailhead. I arrived in the early afternoon, and began the drive back home.
I was glad to have finally visited Thousand Island Lakes on this iconic backpacking trip. I can't say that I strongly recommend this trip, as it was more crowded than I had expected, and the crowded nature of Thousand Island Lakes was quite off-putting. The setting of Thousand Island Lakes next to Banner Peak and Mount Ritter is truly stunning, and of course all of the trails are superbly maintained. Although more private campsites can be found even at the more crowded Ediza and Thousand Island Lakes, this is not the trip to undertake for those seeking solitude. On the other hand, camping at Clark Lakes, Laura Lake or Cabin Lake may offer better alternatives for private camping, with day-hike options to the busier lakes. Although Ediza was a nice lake, I didn't think it warranted its huge crowds, especially compared to my experiences at Yosemite earlier in the year.
Photos by Cris Lewis; Sony Alpha 6600, Sony 18-135 mm lens, Sigma 16 mm f 1.4 lens
LOGISTICS
Reservations for this backpacking trip must be made up to six months in advance at Recreation.gov. Some permits may be released on different schedules, so check the website for the release schedule, which may change with Covid or other restrictions.
Personally, I would recommend the counter-clockwise route that I took, as this allows completing the small ascent through forested hillsides in the early morning hours, rather than climbing the hot, dusty, and exposed Shadow Creek trail up to Shadow Creek.
Reservations are strongly recommended for the shuttle bus that transports you from the expansive parking lot at Mammoth Mountain Adventure Center to the Agnew Meadows Trailhead. Note that tickets must be picked up at the office in person before boarding the bus, even if you have booked reservations online in advance. Leave enough time to pick up the tickets before your shuttle departs.
Bear-proof storage exists at the small parking lot at the Agnew Meadows Trailhead. Driving to and parking at this trailhead must occur before 7 a.m. or after 7 p.m.
Bear canisters are absolutely required on the entire trail, and there are plenty of rangers throughout the area stopping folks to check for permits and ensure proper food storage. Please thank the rangers for their tireless service and trail maintenance!