WEST VANCOUVER ISLAND 2016
In the summer of 2016, I was fortunate to be able to join a kayaking expedition organized by Gordon Schanck, along with Joe Petolino and John Somers. This part of the Vancouver Island coastline is more remote, and our paddles north and south from Kyuquot offered great experiences. We saved valuable time by catching a ride with our kayaks with Get West Adventure Cruises, an outstanding tour group operator that runs an historic wooden hulled vessel, the MV Uchuck III, along the west coast of Vancouver Island from Gold River to Kyuquot Sound.
On the first part of the trip we paddled north from Kyuoquot to Brooks Peninsula and back. On the second part, we paddled south from Kyuquot to Ensanada Inlet. Total Distance Approximately 118 mi / 190 km.
The little town of Kyuoquot
The storm made a paddle uninviting, so we explored the island in between the rain.
On the morning we packed up to leave the island, a young wolf from the pack came out to sniff our dry bags while we were further away near the tide line. He went back to his family as we packed up and launched. We also had a glimpse of adorable pups playing at the edges of the forest.
The rain eased for our paddle to the Bunsby Islands, where we found a campsite and then took an extra day to paddle around the Bunsby Islands and explore. We paddled to the iconic Green Head for a photo op before rock gardening and touring around as much of the islands as possible. The rain, fog, and a moderate cold wind resumed the next day, when we paddled to the Cuttle Islets, and then crossed Nasparti Inlet to reach Jackobson Point.
When we paddled around Jackobson Point the next day we were treated to beautiful white sand beaches with minimal surf. We landed on a small peninsula with a hiking trail that required climbing a fun rope hang over a cliff to the beach on the other side. Storm clouds were still lurking along with a forecast for worsening weather, so we realized the timing was not ideal to paddle further west on Brooks Peninsula.
Jackobson Point
Gnarly hiking at Jackobson Point
White sand beaches west of Jackobson Pt
We paddled back south the next day, stopping by a waterfall along the coast and at Acous Peninsula before returning to our previous site in the Bunsby's. The wind picked up the next day and we made it back to an island campsite near Kyuoquot in the afternoon just as the whitecaps spread out across the ocean as far as we could see. We took a break the next day, paddling to Kyuoquot for a food and water pickup. Back at the island, the wolf family re-emerged, with the male sticking his face out of the brush right near my tent, and the pups gamboling over the rocks before disappearing into the brush. What a thrill to see these animals in the wild!
We packed up and departed fairly early the next day, paddling past the Mission Group and Favourite Inlet, on our way to Rugged Point Marine Provincial Park before the forecasted 15-25 kn winds arrived. We arrived at noon, just as the winds were increasing, which gave us time for some relaxing beach walks. The campsites here were quite civilized with platforms and a real latrine.
White sand beaches at Rugged Pt Marine Park
The fog was quite thick the next morning, with less than a quarter mile visibility. We launched thinking the fog would lift as the day warmed, but it stuck around. Fortunately, I had a marine GPS to navigate through the islands, and we paddled for several miles past Kapoose Rocks in the fog, with faint visibility of rocks and waves on either side of our kayaks. We were able to skirt the reef outside Gregoire Point in the fog, to land on a very protected beach with no surf. We were reluctant to paddle around Tatchu Point in the thick fog, so we had lunch and waited to see if the fog might lift -- it did not until almost 6 pm! That night there was an intense thunderstorm, with lightning that lit up my tent, loud thunder, and then steady rain for some hours through the night. It had been a while since I had experienced such an intense lightning display out in the wilderness.
Visibility was improved the following morning, but there was still a forecast of a risk of thunderstorms, and the rain continued. We took a rest day, catching up on sleep and reading. In the afternoon, we followed some tracks and saw a lone wolf on the beach, but didn't want to disturb him in his habitat. There was also plenty of bear scat on this isolated beach, but we saw no bears.
Wolf tracks spanned the beach
This lone wolf wasn't too frightened of us.
We kept our distance, then left the wolf in peace.
Point Gregoire Campsite at low tide, sky finally clearing.
Visibility and weather had improved, so we launched mid-morning for an improved tide clearance. A light south breeze increased in intensity, so that by the time we were rounding the infamous Tatchu Point with its long tidal bar and tide rips, we had a strong wind and an apparent current obstructing our progress. I in particular struggled with low speed in getting around the point and into the protected waters of the bay near Yellow Bluff. *Although the guidebook recommends keeping to a 30 m depth when rounding Tatchu Point, this seemed to be overkill without a big swell forecast. But I would pay more attention to the combined forecast of wind and current next time! We saw rafts of sea otters outside Yellow Bluff bay, near High Rocks. I was drenched inside my drysuit from the tough paddle and it felt good to take a lunch break at Yellow Bluff. From there we paddled over to Catala Island Marine Provincial Park to set up camp and relax for the day.
Peaceful Catala Island Slideshow
Catala Island driftwood
Catala Island wildflowers
Deer on Catala Island
From Catala, we paddled over to the mainland to collect some water, then crossed over to Flower Islet and the delightful Rosa Island. In this more populous area, there were already others camped at Rosa Island, but plenty of room for our group of four. We were able to circumnavigate Rosa after lunch, rock gardening in several nooks and caves before returning to camp. We had a full day to explore the Nuchatlitz Marine Provincial Park area the next day.
The last day of paddling was relaxing and fun, and the weather was great. We explored the outer islands of Nuchatlitz lagoon south west of Nootka Island, and visited the eerie protected burial grounds on one of the islets, taking telephotos from a distance so as not to disturb the area. We visited Ensanada Islet before paddling over to Grassy Knoll on Nootka Island. We paddled back along the west coastline of Nootka Island before circling Rosa Island again and returning to camp.
On our last day, we had only to pack up and await the arrival of the MV Uchuck III to pick us up for the return to Gold River. We were treated to a tour of the unique engine room on the Uchuck III, as well as enjoyable scenery along the way.
I highly recommend Get West Adventures!!
This was an excellent kayaking expedition with great paddling companions! I felt lucky to be able to experience this beautiful stretch of coastline. It is more remote than the southern west coast of Vancouver Island, but not as remote as Alaska. By waiting out occasional weather, the paddling offers outstanding scenery per paddling mile, and safe conditions for the experienced and well-equipped paddler.
REFERENCES AND INFORMATION
Photographs by Cris Lewis, with additional by Joe Petolino, Gordon Schanck and John Somers ---delightful and caring paddling companions all!
LOGISTICS LINKS:
Get West Adventures: 1-877-824-8253
GUIDEBOOKS:
John Kimantas, "The Wild Coast: A Kayaking, Hiking and Recreation Guide for North and West Vancouver Island" Whitecap Books, 2011. ISBN-10: 1770500138
John Kimantas, "BC Coastal Recreation Kayaking and Small Boat Atlas: British Columbia's West Vancouver Island" Whitecap Books, 2011 ISBN: 9781552858653
Heather Harbord, "Sea Kayak Nootka & Kyuoquot Sounds" Rocky Mountain Books, 2004. ISBN: 1-894765-52-4